What You'll Require

Tools / Equipment :-

• Trowel with a 1/4-inch notch

• Drill/driver

• Drywall knife, 6 in.

• Measurement tape

• Make a chalk line

• Pencil

• T-square

• Spacers for tiles

• A mallet made of rubber

• If you're not utilizing custom-cut tile, use a wet saw.

• Hole saws with diamond tips (if needed)

• Knife for everyday use

• Brush made of foam

• Gloves for the workplace

• Floaty grout

• Sponge for grouting

Materials:-

• Tiles made of marble

• Mortar with a thin-set

• Sheets of cement board

• 1 1/4-inch screw for cement board

• Joint tape for cement boards

• a 2-by-4-foot board

• Sealer for marble tiles and grout

• Grout

1.  Make the Subfloor Ready

For installation, marble floor tile (like any floor tile) requires a smooth, level, water-resistant base. Most of the time, this will include removing the previous floor covering all the way down to the subfloor layer, which is often plywood or MDF.

Cover the exposed wood subfloor with a layer of cement board to give the floor more rigidity and moisture resistance. A cement board isn't a vapor or moisture barrier, so it won't stop moisture from going through, but it won't be destroyed by it the way the wood is. The cement board is also designed to work well with thin-set mortar glue, which is what you'll be using to lay your marble tile.

2.  Make a list of references

Instead of starting abruptly from one of the walls, your installation will appear best if the tiles spread outward from the middle of the room. You'll need to draw reference lines on the cement board underlayment's surface to accomplish this symmetrical appearance.

Divide the room in half by finding the center of two opposing walls and drawing a path between them using a chalk line.

Then, using a T-square and a pencil, measure to the center of that line and draw a perpendicular line at the mark. Using the pencil line as a guide, draw a chalk line across the floor, dividing it into four equal quadrants.

Test-fit entire tiles along both reference lines from wall to wall to ensure your arrangement is correct. Adjust the chalk line grid as needed if the last row of tiles against any of the walls is less than a few inches wide, depending on your desire, so that the tiles along the walls are an appropriate width.

3. Mortar should be mixed and spread.

Follow the manufacturer's directions while mixing thin-set mortar. Make a small amount at a time and add more as needed. Spread the glue over the floor with a notched trowel, starting where the reference lines connect in the center of the room.

Create grooves in the mortar using the notched edge of the trowel as you work. The link between the cement board and the bottom of the marble will be stronger as a result of this.

4. Start with the first tile

Spread enough mortar to completely cover the bottom of a single tile and notch the whole surface. Press the first tile into position gently, matching two of its sides with the layout's chalk lines in the corner. Twist the tile slightly as you press it down to ensure that it sets correctly in the mortar bed underneath.

5. With a rubber mallet, pound the tile into place

A huge hammer with a soft rubber head is known as a rubber mallet. Use this to softly tap the marble tile's surface into the mortar, forcing it down more firmly. However, don't tap too hard, as marble is a delicate substance that cracks quickly. While laying the tile, try not to move it.

6.  Additional Tiles should be installed

Continue spreading mortar for each tile before placing it before moving on to the next. Use the reference line as a guide to maintaining your placement straight as you get closer to the wall. To keep the spacing between tiles constant, use tile spacers. The spacers should be chosen to match the width of the joints you've chosen. Grout lines are sharpened and standardized with the use of spacers.

7.  Complete the remaining full-size tiles installation.

Use a 2-by-4 after every three or four tiles to guarantee that they are of the same height. Tap the board softly with the rubber mallet as it is placed across the tiles. If the marble is polished, you may wish to use a piece of carpet to protect the front of the wood from scratches. When you have more tiles placed, you may perform this across numerous rows. Once you've completed the first row, pay attention to the gap at the end, which may require a custom-cut piece. Return to the reference lines' center point and proceed to put tiles close to the first row. After every few tiles, take a time to double-check that all of your lines are aligned and that the entire floor appears crisp and uniform.

8.  Using a Wet Saw to Cut Tiles

Cut tiles as needed using a wet tile saw. A small wet saw may be purchased for about $100, but most DIYers prefer to hire one by the day. Basic straight cuts on tiles up to 12 inches can be made using smaller, portable saws. A fixed cost for the saw may be charged, as well as a prorated payment for diamond blade wear. Ask your tile provider if they can cut pieces for you if you have tough cuts or don't want to use a saw. Special hole saws with diamond-encrusted cutting blades may be used to cut holes in marble tile, which may be important if you have plumbing lines going up through the floor. A power drill is used to attach the hole saws.

9.  Excess Mortar Must Be Removed

Use a paint stick or a utility knife to remove any leftover glue that has seeped up from the crevices between tiles. Allow the mortar glue to cure fully after all of the tiles have been placed, as directed by the manufacturer. You should avoid walking on the floor during this period to avoid disturbing or depressing a tile.

10. The marble should be sealed.

Because marble is porous, various things can penetrate the stone's surface and leave persistent stains. As a result, before grouting, it must be treated with a high-quality marble tile sealer. If grout is put before the marble is cured, it might permanently discolor the tile.Apply a very thin layer of sealant on polished marble. Smooth away any puddles or tiny bubbles that develop on the surface with the foam brush, since they might dry into permanent characteristics. Although the surface of tumbled and honed marble is more forgiving, the same criteria apply.

11. Tile Grouting

Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. If the joints are 1/8-inch wide or less, use unsanded grout; if the joints are bigger, use sanded grout. Mix only as much as you can apply in 15 to 20 minutes—the point at which the grout begins to build up—as you did with the mortar. Apply the grout to the joints with a grout float and a sweeping motion to drive it down into the joints. Holding the tool on its edge might assist in pushing the grout lower. As much as possible, guide the mix into the grooves, wiping away any excess that gets on the tiles. The seams between tiles should ideally be completely filled with grout, with no voids.

12. Using a damp cloth, wipe the tiles clean

Wipe the surface of the marble tiles clean and remove extra grout using a wide grout sponge that is slightly moist. Allowing moisture to penetrate into the grout lines can cause the mix to become muddy and wash away, so be careful. Also, focus your efforts on the surface of the tiles alone to prevent accidentally pulling the grout out of the joints as you work with the sponge.

13. Grout should be sealed

Before sealing the grout, check the manufacturer's recommended waiting period. It's not unusual to have to wait seven days. Use a foam brush to seal the grout, following the manufacturer's application instructions.

Conclusion :

Now that your tiles are installed, it's time to grout them. Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions and apply it to the joints with a grout float. Once the grout has been applied, wipe away any excess that gets on the tiles. Allow the grout to cure fully before walking on the floor. Congratulations, you have now successfully tiled your tabletop!